Two Guys Rally

Calm The Eff Down [ July 11th, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith

Slowing yourself down and not ‘pushing too hard’ will, oddly enough, make you faster. The principle behind it works in many other sports, especially those considered “Finesse Sports”. If you calm down and let your tools do the work for you (car vs golf clubs vs tennis racquets) you’ll find yourself performing consistently better.

There was a saying I heard at Team O’Neil Rally School, and it was: “Slow in, Out fast”. Regardless of the obvious: if you cannot make the corner, you cannot win the race. I think they were trying to tell us to calm down and not be so concerned with if it felt fast. If something feels fast, it doesn’t make it so, you need a clock to tell you how fast it really is. I think this is why simulators are so useful, while it may not be the real thing, you can work on your mental game in them.

So I would just like to instill these words on to you: “Calm The Eff Down“.

How To Heel-Toe Downshift: The Video [ May 9th, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith

Oh Look a Video!

Read the Text version here on Two Guys Rally.

YouTube Video. Revver Video.

Things to Check Before a RallyCross [ May 8th, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith

Rallycross is an event where you can drive any car you choose on the dirt in a coned off course. It is analagous to Autocross but for the dirt. However, it is a motorsport, and there are things you should check on your car before you do a Rallycross.

Check Your Oil

Make sure your oil levels are in the normal range. Do not overfill your oil as it brings bubbles into the oil system (the oil gets churned up by the engine and foams) which will cause lots of stress on the engine’s bearings. Really old abused oil is not good for your cars engine for normal use, and that makes it even worse for motorsports use. The particulate that collects in motor oil can cause damage to your engine when being run real hard, so get fresher oil for those competitions.

Check Your Tire Pressure

Make sure your tire pressure is at the factory levels or higher (not above the limits of your tires!). The lower the pressure the more grip you get, sure that is great, but since this is probably your daily driver you don’t want to ‘roll a bead’. Rolling a bead means the tire’s bead comes off of your rim and deflates. This will probably damage your rim if it happens. In order to fill your tires up, most gas stations have tire pumps. I know Hess has free tire fill stations. While you’re down there make sure your lug nuts are nicely tightened to their specified torquing.

Check Your Coolant Levels

Running your engine hard means your engine has to be cooled even more than normal, so your coolant should be in the normal range and must have anti-freeze (helps with boiling in the summer!). If it does not, remedy it by adding coolant and the correct amount of anti-freeze. Read the directions on the anti-freeze when you’re doing this.

Remove Everything from Your Car

This is a good chance to clean your car of all those Taco Bell receipts and whatever else you happen to leave in your car (I leave a lot of bike tires in my car, currently there is a large orange cone too). Make sure you remove all the heavy crap from your car, like that toolbox kicking around in the rear, or your friends BMX because if you stop too fast in a Rallycross with a BMX in the back, that bike is coming to get you. I’m not saying that you should remove your spare tire or anything important, but if its in your car, make sure its secured.

Make Sure You Will Have a Helmet

Knowing you will have a helmet to compete in is nice (especially if it is yours), as it makes you less nervous the day of. Helmets are always required, if they’re not, I dont think you’re going to a real rallycross, let alone a safe one. So get your helmet ready, or make sure you can use and fit your friend’s helmet or at least make sure the organizers will have loaner helmets. Most Rallycrosses will have loaner helmets available

Prepare (at least) The Night Before

Preparing the night before allows you to actually be ready for the Rallycross in the morning, rather than scrambling to be ready that morning. So get together your shade tent, folding chairs, refreshments (not beer, driving+beer=no), food, tools, spares and what have you and put them in the car/transport vehicle. You can transport this stuff to the Rallycross in your car, just don’t race with it in there. Make sure your camera is charged and you have tape/film/space for all the neat photos/video you will record.

Get a Good Night’s Sleep

Sleep is a big part of performing well. You might as well be competitive if you chose to get up and haul your butt to the Rallycross, so sleep.

Eat a Decent Breakfast

I wouldn’t suggest McDonald’s breakfast or something that greasy as it will make you end up in the Porta-Potties. It might not normally for you but when I compete in things I get nervous before hand and that doesn’t help in that regard. So I like to eat toast and two eggs (sunny side up duh!) as that fills me up and lets me focus.

Get There Early

Showing up early only makes things easier on you. You wont be scrambling to finish registering, and you wont miss any safety meetings. You’ll get to walk the course for a longer period of time and it will keep you more relaxed.

Tape Your Cabin Intake Vent Closed

Taping your intake vents for the cabin (ONLY! Your car needs air!) shut will keep dust out of your intake filter. I know a few people over at DirtyImpreza.com do this because they’ve had many experiences where they would smell dust for weeks after the event. Only do this for the event, and only if it is really dry out. I would suggest using duct tape/ painter’s tape/ gaffer’s tape.

Check Your Brakes.

If you know how, check your brakes (bleed them if necessary) including brake pads, lines, rotors and all that jazz. You might be using your brakes a lot (depending on the course) and crappy brakes will end up in a crappy day. Most likely, your brakes will be fine.

So find your local Rallycross and go out and have a blast. It is the most fun you’ll have in your street car, I guarantee. I know Mark and I will be attending a few Rallycrosses in the Finger Lakes region (maybe even DC for me) this year. Hope to see you out there…relaxed and ready.

How To Double Clutch: The Video [ May 3rd, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith

A video on how to double clutch:

Read the text version here on Two Guys Rally. Youtube video. Revver video.

Why Exercise is So Important in Motorsports [ April 21st, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith

The driver is the most important part when it comes to the performance of a vehicle. An out of shape, untuned driver will make even the fastest car go slow and while driving is the best way to figure out how to go fast, physical fitness keeps the ability to go fast through out a day.

But Charles, driving a car isn’t that physically demanding. Good point, but working your body to its limits does not only help your body, but also your mind. Racing might not be hugely physically demanding, but it is extremely mentally demanding. Travis Pastrana mentioned in his biographical documentary “199 Lives” that after a motocross race his body would be exhausted but his mind was energized, yet after a rally race his body would be ready to run a 5k yet he couldn’t think straight. Exercise improves your ability to concentrate for longer periods of time and that is the key benefit we get from exercise in a motorsports setting.

Also, why bother saving 5 pounds on a part in the car when you could, perhaps, more easily and cheaply save 5 pounds on the driver (and co-driver). Weight savings coupled with a driver who can concentrate for longer periods of time will speed up a race team. Don’t just take my word for it though, look at all the top race teams in the world. WRC, F1 and even NASCAR all stress the importance of physical fitness. The top drivers are in very good physical shape and could beat you and me in a foot race, let alone a car race. Don’t even take their word for it: go try it. Do something fun outside (sunlight is good for you too) with a friend and make it a habit. Your lap and stage times will decrease, you’ll feel better after a day of racing, you’ll be more confident and you’ll even look better. Go play!

Being inspired by my own writing, or perhaps it is a need to not be hypocritical, I have started cycling again. The hardest part about exercising again is the first two weeks, and I keep telling myself I have to clear those two weeks and I’ll be golden. I figure I have plenty of pounds I could shed for some weight savings, and I might as well do that before I have a rally car. Plus looking good for some cameras is not a bad thing when it comes to scoring some sponsors. A warning: As with any new physical activity or return from an extended break, don’t rush in right away because you will just hurt yourself or become unmotivated.

Looking Ahead [ April 17th, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith

The point of this is simple: look where you want to go.

1. Look at the part of the road you want to be on.
2. Don’t look at the tree you Don’t want to hit.
3. Look far ahead (you will catch oversteer this way).
4. Looking too close infront of you will slow you down (everything seems faster).
5. Look through the corners (Don’t focus on the apex the whole way)

While this all may sound simple, it has really helped me. Not looking at things I don’t want to hit doesn’t help alone, looking at the places you want your car to be does. Your brain likes to follow your eyes (we are very visual animals), and because of how automated our brains have made driving, our cars also follow our eyes. Ever catch yourself looking off to the side in your car, and your car starts drifting over in that direction even if you’re trying to keep it from doing that?

Looking far ahead also helps our brains out by making everything seem like it has slowed down. This keeps us nice and calm. Our mind being kept at ease keeps us from thinking about how we are going to hit that tree just to our left and lets us focus on driving. This even works in racing video games, so go try it there if you’re skeptical. I first put it to use in Toca Race Driver 2.

Remember, look far ahead! It takes some getting used to but I guarantee it will make you faster on a race course.

How To Handbrake Turn [ April 15th, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith

Performing the Handbrake Turn

1. Approach the Corner at 20-25mph (in 1st or 2nd Gear)
2. Turn Into the Corner with lots of Steering Input
3. Clutch In
4. Hold Button on the Handbarke In
5. Pull the Handbrake Up HARD
6. Wait for Car to Rotate
7. Drop the Handbrake (button still depressed)
8. Straighten the Wheels
9. Clutch Out and Go

The key to the handbrake turn is having enough speed to rotate the car and pulling up on the handbrake with enough force to break the traction of the rear wheels. Remember to Clutch In before you pull up on the handbrake in AWD and RWD cars. If you do not, the engine will stall or you will hurt your transmission and brakes.

The steps will blur together as you get better at this. Steps 3, 4 and 5 will be almost simultaneous and steps 7, 8 and 9 will start to blend together also. At first, focus on getting the car to rotate and learning how long you have to keep the handbrake applied before dropping it and getting your move on.

If the car is still not rotating, very light foot braking can help the car lose rear wheel traction as it unweights the rear end. As with any driving maneuver you must practice it to know how to do it right. So find a safe place to do it, preferably a loose surface. As always, with most sliding techniques, high center of gravity cars are more dangerous to do this in.

Why Perform a Handbrake Turn?

Sometimes the fastest way around a corner is to slide around it. This is especially true through a hairpin turn where a 180 degree rotation is required.

The handbrake is also used to correct mild understeer mid-corner and tighten up a sloppy wide corner. Although in North American rally races you do not see the handbrake used as widely as it is in the WRC races. I wonder why that is…

Anyway, with a FWD car you can actually apply power to the ground while the handbrake is up. This is very handy for getting the car to rotate without losing as much speed in very slippery conditions. Remember, stay safe and don’t keep repeating it too many times after you get it right.

How To J-Turn - The Video [ April 11th, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith

If you would like to read about how to do it, see our text article here on TwoGuysRally.

Video on YouTube. Video on Revver.

How To J-Turn (James Bond Reverse to Forward) [ April 10th, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith

Performing the J-Turn

1. Shift to Reverse
2. Go in a straight line backwards at a good speed(higher speed for more grippy surfaces)
3. Take your foot off the gas abruptly
4. Jerk the steering wheel Right or Left (Left for an actual J as seen from above)
5. Clutch in
6. Move the gear selector to Neutral (BE SURE YOU’RE IN NEUTRAL!)
7. Clutch out and then Clutch in (This step is the double clutch, it will make the reverse to 1st/2nd gear transition easier on the transmission)
8. Move the gear selector to 1st/2nd gear (keep one hand on the wheel!)
9. Once the car starts pointing in the direction of travel bring the Steering wheel to straight ahead
10. Clutch out and Gas! GOGOGO

The speed required for a J-turn increases with grip. The faster you’re going in reverse, the easier the car will whip around, but also the easier it will be to lose complete control of the car. The first few times it is attempted, don’t worry about forcing the transmission into 1st or 2nd gear, focus on the speed and steering inputs (also safety!).

J-turns are not like the other how-to articles on this site, they are jerky and not smooth. Quick pedal movements and quick steering inputs upset the balance of the car making it possible to complete the 180 degree rotation.

Why Perform a J-Turn

Why not?! You get to look like James Bond doing it. While it is mostly a for show technique it does have a legitimate use: spin recovery. After a spin, you might be facing the completely wrong direction, and a J-Turn is a fast and dangerous way to save some recovery time.

So go out and find a safe place to practice a J-turn. A safe place means somewhere you are allowed to do this and has lots of space so you will not hit anything. Keep in mind it is much easier on loose stuff or wet tarmac than the grippy dry pavement we find all over. I would not suggest doing this in high center of gravity vehicles such as an SUV as the risk of rollover is huge.

Here’s a video version: How To J-Turn - The Video.

How to Left Foot Brake [ April 8th, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith

*WARNING*
DO NOT TRY THIS FOR YOUR FIRST TIME ON A PUBLIC STREET
If you’re used to using the Clutch Pedal with your left foot, you will slam on the brakes the first time you try this.
*WARNING*

Performing Left Foot Braking

1. Press the Throttle with your Right Foot
2. Apply Pressure to the Brake with your Left Foot

Left Foot Braking (LFB) is, in theory, very simple. With your Right foot on the gas you use your left foot to brake and that will change the balance of the car. The trick with LFB is the technique changes from car to car and from surface to surface. When I was learning how to use LFB one of the cars I drove “preferred” a stab at the brakes followed by firm pressure, while another one preferred smooth application of the brakes and far less pressure than the first car. My WRX, in the snow, prefers throttle to pitch the car with light and short LFB to upset the balance and flick the car.

In order to succeed at LFB you should practice normal braking with your left foot in an EMPTY parking lot. The first time you try it, you will probably apply a bit too much pressure and abruptly stop. Once you’re comfortable braking with your left foot use it while driving normally. You will develop better control over your left foot.

Why Left Foot Brake?

Left Foot Braking can be used in a few ways, and those ways are surface dependent. On Tarmac it is primarily used to reduce the time from throttle to brake. On gravel, snow and dirt it is used to pitch the car into a slide. In turbocharged cars it can be used to keep the turbo spooled through corners,.

On the loose stuff it can be used to slide front wheel drive cars (FWD), and very easily rear wheel drive cars (RWD), without using the handbrake. It does this by un-weighting the rear end of the car and giving the front wheels more traction. Try it out: find an empty lot of loose stuff (parking lot with snow, field you have permission to be in, gravel parking lot you’re allowed to wreck) and start driving in a circle. Start with little steering input (so that means not full lock!) and with your right foot on the gas (keep it at a decent pressure), apply the brakes slowly and smoothly with your left. If your car just slows down, keep trying, but use less braking pressure. You might find your car enter a slide. Maybe, if you still aren’t sliding, try stabbing at the brakes with your left foot. Experiment, it is one of the best ways to teach yourself anything. You will eventually see the effects of weight transfer, and you will be a safer driver because of it. This is very hard on your brakes and your engine, so be warned and be safe!

It sports yet another nifty use: Left Foot Braking is a poor man’s limited slip differential. A car with a normal differential will apply no power to the ground if one of the drive wheels (assuming 2WD) is spinning freely. Adding braking forces to the wheel will cause the differential to act as if both wheels are gripping and will apply power to both wheels. So next time you find your dirt launches to cause a one tire fire, or one of your drive wheels is stuck in a ditch and the other is in the air, apply a tiny amount of brake pressure.