Just one question: you said knowing how to LFB makes you a safer driver? I mean, to me, it seems good for sliding your car (which is really funny :D), but I can’t see how it makes you a safer driver. Anyway, thanks for that!

Regards.

Proof that you can rally just about anything! I SO wish the Focus RS was coming to the USA…

http://www.blogtoilet.com

As far as breaking the brake (hoho), I’ll pass this on to Mark (the other guy of twoguysrally).

Most definitely you’d want diff locking to be off if you have control over your center diff. If you can only control your rear diff, you lock it to work both wheels during the handbrake turn.

- testivar.com

Chas

I’ve had it out for about a year and decided it’ll never be a problem with all the different weather I’ve been through

Even MRT performance in Australia recommends it and does it on the cars they modify

Now I have to figure out the best drop in filter…

leaving the ram air fan in is a GOOD thing In my opinion

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z5-_kdeOg8E

It certainly is easier to keep things clean than to clean something dirty. That way you can avoid using harsh chemicals or abrasive scrubbing materials, and keep your rims in excellent condition.

Not so much of a worry for winter wheels (if used) where they’re exposed to all sorts of sodium nastiness, but for those that have pricey wheens on their ride, keep ‘em clean - not just to look nice but to protect your investment.

A few other notes:

1) 3M green pad WILL remove any protective coatings on metal - while it scours away all sorts of grime, it will quickly scrub off any protective clear coats on rims or permanently de-gloss/scuff them.

2) Many rims come with a clear coat that will be attacked by harsh chemical cleaners (engine degreasers, resin removers, etc.) not made specifically for rims.

3) Many car detailers put wax on their rims to add a protective (sacrificial) layer to the metal and any coatings on the metal (chrome, powdercoat, enamel, etc.)

4) Some household cleaners will cause rapid oxidization of exposed ferrous metals.

I might use your SHO video as an example in the next article if you don’t mind.

This is one I did by putting my camera in the fog light bracket:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l7J_c2kj5kQ&feature=channel_page

My friend did this one by strapping a tri-pod to the passenger door:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e5WBE_3A8-Q

NASCAR is a storied sport with fast races, speedy vehicles and fantastic fans. But it’s the drivers who sell NASCAR tickets as they chisel their careers race by race. Most drivers never taste victory, and smaller number still enjoy the success of a C…

The two sides of the turbo are the turbine side, which is spun by exhaust gases as they leave the engine, and the compressor side, which is driven by the turbine side and which compresses the intake air.

The size of the turbine and compressor wheels, and the size and shape of their housings, affects the efficient range of the turbo.

The turbine size has an impact on how much power the engine can produce. A large turbine will pose little resistance to outgoing exhaust gas, so the engine will be able to make more horsepower, but a large turbine will spin up to speed (”spool up”) much more slowly. A small turbine will spool up quickly, but will choke down the exhaust and limit horsepower.

The compressor side has less of an effect on spool-up, but generally a larger compressor will produce cooler compressed air, and will be able to generate more turbo boost, but will take a little longer to spin up to speed.

The moral of the story is there is no free lunch. A larger, more efficient turbo can produce more boost, but will spin up more slowly and will not work as well at low rpms. A smaller turbo will have fast spool-up but weak high-rpm horsepower.

What does this mean? Factory turbos are usually sized for around-town driving, not top-speed autobahn use, so they’re smaller turbochargers with low lag and modest maximum boost levels. The 95-99 turbo cars have very small turbochargers, but also exhibit almost no “turbo lag.” The 90-94 cars had a bigger turbo, with a bit more lag, but still very fast spool-up.

At the other end of the spectrum are monster race turbos. These turbos will require very high volumes of exhaust gas just to get them spinning. This means no usable boost until 5000 rpms or more. This kind of turbo can produce enormous boost levels and huge horsepower numbers, but the car will be practically undrivable on the street, with weak low-rpm power, abrupt on-boost transition, and huge top-end power. (Have you ever played Gran Turismo and had the Nissan Skyline with all the mods? It’s like driving that…)