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	<title>Comments on: 5 Tools That Any Respectable Car Nut Should Have</title>
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	<link>http://twoguysrally.com/2008/08/25/5-tools-that-any-respectable-car-nut-should-have/</link>
	<description>Two guys on a journey into the Rally Racing world</description>
	<pubDate>Tue, 07 Sep 2010 10:35:25 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>By: Charles Smith</title>
		<link>http://twoguysrally.com/2008/08/25/5-tools-that-any-respectable-car-nut-should-have/#comment-542</link>
		<dc:creator>Charles Smith</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 27 Aug 2008 20:58:32 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://twoguysrally.com/?p=126#comment-542</guid>
		<description>good stuff dustin. As for the time it takes you really wont know how long your car will be up on jackstands (or whatever) if this is the first time doing a part replace/mod.

For example, when Mark and I took out my snorkus off it took like 30 minutes, but if we had to do it again it would take all of 5 minutes :P.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>good stuff dustin. As for the time it takes you really wont know how long your car will be up on jackstands (or whatever) if this is the first time doing a part replace/mod.</p>
<p>For example, when Mark and I took out my snorkus off it took like 30 minutes, but if we had to do it again it would take all of 5 minutes :P.</p>
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		<title>By: Dustin Tarditi</title>
		<link>http://twoguysrally.com/2008/08/25/5-tools-that-any-respectable-car-nut-should-have/#comment-540</link>
		<dc:creator>Dustin Tarditi</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 26 Aug 2008 12:15:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://twoguysrally.com/?p=126#comment-540</guid>
		<description>PB Blaster, a rubber mallet, pry bar, and RTV silicone. 

I have heard great things about JB Weld, but never had much luck with it, and it's never a permanent fix.

I am a fan of getting the best quality tools you can afford - preferably from a place that offers unconditional lifetime warranty. You can buy almost any single wrench or socket individually, but you always pay less for a set. 

6-point sockets are better than 12 point sockets (wall thickness + gripping surface area). If you have the choice of buying a set of no-name cheap generic 12-point sockets or a single good quality, lifetime guarantee 6-point socket in a particular size you need, get the single socket. 

Eventually work your way up to multiple drive sizes, and both standard sockets and deep well.

A breaker bar saves wear &#38; tear on your ratchets.

Ratchet extensions are sometimes a lifesaver - you can only get a couple degrees of movement deep in the engine bay, but if you can extend the height by 12"-14" you may be able to get 180 degrees of swing... or maybe even up to 360. I put wobble extensions in this category, too.

Ratchet wrenches are expensive but worth every penny when you need them!

Don't make the mistake of using a regular open-ended wrench on a brake line - get a flare nut wrench to do it correctly.

I try to never use an adjustable wrench on my car - one of the easiest ways to strip a bolt (or knuckle).

One of the handiest low-buck tools I have is a telescopic magnet - you could fab something with a coat hanger and tape, but adhesive won't grab a fluid-covered fastener when it falls into the depths of your engine bay.

Don't be intimidated by the mechanicals - they're not that complicated when distilled down to the appropriate level. While the end product you have sitting in the driveway is a sophisticated pile of inter-connected systems and layers, with a service manual, patience, and the right tools, the average shade-tree mechanic can do a very large portion of maintenance/repair themselves. Focus on the trees, not the forest... don't get overwhelmed with the scale.

The best tool advice I can offer is to bring your patience. If you only have 1 hour to perform a 1 hour task, wait until you have more time - don't rush - it's not conducive to good results, you won't enjoy the quality time you get with your car, and you're likely to make mistakes/overlook something.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>PB Blaster, a rubber mallet, pry bar, and RTV silicone. </p>
<p>I have heard great things about JB Weld, but never had much luck with it, and it&#8217;s never a permanent fix.</p>
<p>I am a fan of getting the best quality tools you can afford - preferably from a place that offers unconditional lifetime warranty. You can buy almost any single wrench or socket individually, but you always pay less for a set. </p>
<p>6-point sockets are better than 12 point sockets (wall thickness + gripping surface area). If you have the choice of buying a set of no-name cheap generic 12-point sockets or a single good quality, lifetime guarantee 6-point socket in a particular size you need, get the single socket. </p>
<p>Eventually work your way up to multiple drive sizes, and both standard sockets and deep well.</p>
<p>A breaker bar saves wear &amp; tear on your ratchets.</p>
<p>Ratchet extensions are sometimes a lifesaver - you can only get a couple degrees of movement deep in the engine bay, but if you can extend the height by 12&#8243;-14&#8243; you may be able to get 180 degrees of swing&#8230; or maybe even up to 360. I put wobble extensions in this category, too.</p>
<p>Ratchet wrenches are expensive but worth every penny when you need them!</p>
<p>Don&#8217;t make the mistake of using a regular open-ended wrench on a brake line - get a flare nut wrench to do it correctly.</p>
<p>I try to never use an adjustable wrench on my car - one of the easiest ways to strip a bolt (or knuckle).</p>
<p>One of the handiest low-buck tools I have is a telescopic magnet - you could fab something with a coat hanger and tape, but adhesive won&#8217;t grab a fluid-covered fastener when it falls into the depths of your engine bay.</p>
<p>Don&#8217;t be intimidated by the mechanicals - they&#8217;re not that complicated when distilled down to the appropriate level. While the end product you have sitting in the driveway is a sophisticated pile of inter-connected systems and layers, with a service manual, patience, and the right tools, the average shade-tree mechanic can do a very large portion of maintenance/repair themselves. Focus on the trees, not the forest&#8230; don&#8217;t get overwhelmed with the scale.</p>
<p>The best tool advice I can offer is to bring your patience. If you only have 1 hour to perform a 1 hour task, wait until you have more time - don&#8217;t rush - it&#8217;s not conducive to good results, you won&#8217;t enjoy the quality time you get with your car, and you&#8217;re likely to make mistakes/overlook something.</p>
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		<title>By: Mark Ozimek</title>
		<link>http://twoguysrally.com/2008/08/25/5-tools-that-any-respectable-car-nut-should-have/#comment-534</link>
		<dc:creator>Mark Ozimek</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 26 Aug 2008 00:19:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://twoguysrally.com/?p=126#comment-534</guid>
		<description>One thing I always keep in my car is a set of Torx heads, since Volvo tends to really like them for some ungodly reason :(</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>One thing I always keep in my car is a set of Torx heads, since Volvo tends to really like them for some ungodly reason :(</p>
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