5 Tools That Any Respectable Car Nut Should Have
[ August 25th, 2008 ] By: Charles Smith Posted in » Tips and Tricks
Every job has it’s own tool but not everyone can afford that many tools (I know I cannot). So there are a few basic tools that I think every car nut/amateur racer should have:
- Jack and Jack Stands - While hydraulic lifts are neat, the cheap method of working on your suspension or under your car is a set of jack stands (with the jack to lift the car). They’re safe and affordable ($15-40 a pair).
- Ratchet and Sockets - While wrenches are useful, a ratchet with socket ends is much more versatile. You’re much better off trying to tighten a bolt in a tight spot with a ratchet rather than a wrench. Plus the time and annoyance that can go into using a wrench is better left far away from your car…it is going to be stressful enough. Also make sure you have a few different length extensions for those hard to reach spots.
- Slotted Screwdriver - I like to use slightly longer than is necessary screw drivers. You might have to reach through a hole to get a random screw. Slotted screwdrivers are also great for metal fasteners as they usually don’t accept Phillips heads.
- Phillips Screwdriver - Similar to the slotted, a phillips head has an advantage: the wedge shaped interface prevents the driver from slipping out like you find when not careful with the slotted screws. Problem is there is less metal in the head to carry the stress, and they have a tendency to strip if you are not careful.
- Tire Iron/Torque Wrench - While they’re not the same you should have one or the other to secure your wheels. Tire Irons come with your car (along with jacks) so you can put the spare tire on, but a torque wrench to tighten lug nuts is preferred. The torque wrench allows you to precisely tighten lug nuts (remember star pattern!), and that is better for your car.
While there are all sorts of fancy tools, this list should get you going in the right direction. I am curious to hear if you have any key tools that I forgot to mention. So what tools do you use often?
Tags: tools August 25th, 2008 Posted in Tips and Tricks
August 25th, 2008 at 8:19 pm
One thing I always keep in my car is a set of Torx heads, since Volvo tends to really like them for some ungodly reason :(
August 26th, 2008 at 8:15 am
PB Blaster, a rubber mallet, pry bar, and RTV silicone.
I have heard great things about JB Weld, but never had much luck with it, and it’s never a permanent fix.
I am a fan of getting the best quality tools you can afford - preferably from a place that offers unconditional lifetime warranty. You can buy almost any single wrench or socket individually, but you always pay less for a set.
6-point sockets are better than 12 point sockets (wall thickness + gripping surface area). If you have the choice of buying a set of no-name cheap generic 12-point sockets or a single good quality, lifetime guarantee 6-point socket in a particular size you need, get the single socket.
Eventually work your way up to multiple drive sizes, and both standard sockets and deep well.
A breaker bar saves wear & tear on your ratchets.
Ratchet extensions are sometimes a lifesaver - you can only get a couple degrees of movement deep in the engine bay, but if you can extend the height by 12″-14″ you may be able to get 180 degrees of swing… or maybe even up to 360. I put wobble extensions in this category, too.
Ratchet wrenches are expensive but worth every penny when you need them!
Don’t make the mistake of using a regular open-ended wrench on a brake line - get a flare nut wrench to do it correctly.
I try to never use an adjustable wrench on my car - one of the easiest ways to strip a bolt (or knuckle).
One of the handiest low-buck tools I have is a telescopic magnet - you could fab something with a coat hanger and tape, but adhesive won’t grab a fluid-covered fastener when it falls into the depths of your engine bay.
Don’t be intimidated by the mechanicals - they’re not that complicated when distilled down to the appropriate level. While the end product you have sitting in the driveway is a sophisticated pile of inter-connected systems and layers, with a service manual, patience, and the right tools, the average shade-tree mechanic can do a very large portion of maintenance/repair themselves. Focus on the trees, not the forest… don’t get overwhelmed with the scale.
The best tool advice I can offer is to bring your patience. If you only have 1 hour to perform a 1 hour task, wait until you have more time - don’t rush - it’s not conducive to good results, you won’t enjoy the quality time you get with your car, and you’re likely to make mistakes/overlook something.
August 27th, 2008 at 4:58 pm
good stuff dustin. As for the time it takes you really wont know how long your car will be up on jackstands (or whatever) if this is the first time doing a part replace/mod.
For example, when Mark and I took out my snorkus off it took like 30 minutes, but if we had to do it again it would take all of 5 minutes :P.