One More Reason Turbochargers Rule [ November 19th, 2008 ] By: Charles Smith Posted in » Ramblings

It has been getting cold around here and sitting still in a car does nothing to help keep warm. Luckily I drive a WRX and that means it is turbocharged. Besides the added torque/power it makes, one really nice thing in the winter is that my car heats up faster.

Turbos spin really effing fast, and most turbos are cooled and lubed by the engine oil. The turbocharger is transferring heat from the exhaust gasses and its own spinning into the oil. This beautiful heat transfer results in warmer overall oil and so your cabin heaters work that much faster.

Oh how I do love my turbocharged car. There is one caveat, with the turbocharged car you have to be much more careful about running the engine hard (especially when it is cold) and shutting off the engine too soon after running hard. If the turbo gets very hot from running hard, shutting off the engine shuts off oil flow to the turbocharger. The oil left in it can burn off/cake in the turbo (BAD!!!).

How To Install Vinyl Stickers: The Video [ May 16th, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith

Videos are becoming almost weekly. Hooray!

Read the text version here on Two Guys Rally.

Youtube video. Revver video.

May 16th, 2008 | 5 Comments

Rally Racing Online: Australia Placement [ May 15th, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith

So, Rally Australia just ended and my times were good enough to finish in 3rd place! Podium finish! Woohoo!

I started out slow on SS1 with a 5th place start and ended up climbing. I Climbed to 4th by the end of SS2. Finally I reached 3rd by the end of SS5 and stayed there. It was a fun rally and now I get to recce Rally Great Britain (some of my worst stages). Good luck to all that are competing.

If you would like to play Richard Burns Rally online with us, the site for competition is the Rally Sim League.

May 15th, 2008 | Leave a Comment

Talking to Sponsors [ May 14th, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith

Sponsors are people that you will deal with in most any form of competition. Why? Because it is usually too expensive for one person or team to pay for everything. The elites also have sponsors, but that is mostly a salary issue (see Tiger Woods). The question that haunts me is how do you talk to sponsors in order to get what you need?

I have some answers, but surely not all of them and I would appreciate any feedback you’re willing to give on the subject.

Honesty

Unfortunately for some people, being honest about everything related to you and your competition (team included) is key. Don’t claim you’re a 1st placer unless you are, if you’re a novice you’re novice! People and Business look to support people for all sorts of reason, but tricking them is a sure way to piss them off and ensure they never sponsor you in the future.

Transparency

Let them know about anything related to the competition. If they ask about something, tell them about it. Being transparent about the team/competition will make the sponsors feel like they actually know what is going on. They don’t like to be left out of the loop, it makes them feel like they are not getting their money’s worth. Do this with even your smallest sponsor. Making them feel as if they are important to the team (THEY ARE!) keeps them coming back for more.

Update Often

Keep your sponsors informed often. Make it part of your schedule and keep to that schedule. If you landed a new sponsor, tell all the other sponsors. This actually makes them feel better (exception: if it is their biggest competitor) because then it makes them think sponsoring you is not a risky investment. The rationalization is that if other people are doing it, they cannot be blamed for a bad investment.

Tell them about all your events (ie race schedule). After the event tell them how you did and definitely include some eye candy (pictures, videos, etc…).

Invite Them Places

When possible invite them to your competitions. At the end of the season maybe you can organize a Sponsor’s Night or something to that effect. Sponsors are analogous to investors in a normal company, and perks keep them coming back. Some ideas include: If you’re a racer take them along for a hot lap/fast ride, If you’re a skateboarder teach some willing sponsors how to skateboard with pizza and beer, if you’re a paintball team organize a relaxed paintball outing for everyone to come out and try the sport, or if you cannot think of anything a Sponsor’s Dinner/BBQ/Picnic will always work.

The whole point is that sponsors, no matter how big of a company they are, consist of people. So being able to deal with people and make them feel good about your interactions is pretty much it.

Keep in mind, this writing wasn’t a How To Get a Sponsor, just how to keep them happy and talk to them. The How To will come later.

May 14th, 2008 | 1 Comment

How To Install Vinyl Stickers [ May 13th, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith

Performing the Sticker Install

  1. Gather materials
  2. Clean application surface thoroughly with soap AND water
  3. Use masking tape to secure sticker (Fully Intact) to surface
  4. Use water (optional: and soap) to wet sticker
  5. Peel backing of sticker away slowly WHILE pressing sticker flat to surface
  6. Pull, do not push, the vinyl sticker to fine tune your placement (with top layer intact, this requires soapy water)
  7. Squeegee bubbles out of vinyl (top layer still must be intact)
  8. Wet the sticker down with just water, and squeegee again
  9. Let the sticker dry (help it by removing excess water)
  10. Remove the top layer slowly and at a diagonal angle (if the sticker comes with it, press it back down and wet a tiny bit more, let it dry)

I recently installed stickers from DirtyImpreza.com. Aaron, the mastermind of the site, sent me over the stickers and I think they look really good. This became the perfect opportunity to write up a How-To, Thanks Aaron.

The Steps Performed

I gathered a spray bottle of water, some dish soap (hand soap works too!), an old bank card (drivers license would work), an old shirt, masking tape and the stickers. You could also use a razor blade for the install (to remove stubborn bubbles and to cut stickers at gaps.

Next I started cleaning the surface where I wanted to apply the sticker. This is the most important part of the process. An unclean surface will result in many bubbles in the sticker and peeling. Peeling is the death of a vinyl graphic. Anyway, I sprayed the surface down with water and used a couple drops of dish soap on my fingers to clean the surface. For a bigger decal I would suggest a bucket with some soap and water in it. I then dried and scrubbed the surface with my old t-shirt (lint free because its been used so much!).

I placed the sticker onto the surface where I wanted it, then taped one edge of it with masking tape. The masking tape holds the sticker where I want it and acts as a third hand when peeling the sticker backing away. I wet the sticker down and removed the backing of the sticker starting first from the edge I taped. I kept applying pressure to the sticker while slowly peeling the back away.

I squeegeed bubbles out of the vinyl sticker, wet the sticker with just water and then squeegeed again. The top surface doesn’t matter so I focused on the vinyl, as should you. At this point you could use a pin or razor blade for any stubborn bubbles in the vinyl, but I didn’t have any. I removed the excess water with the worn out t-shirt by pressing and no rubbing! I was a bit impatient while applying the sticker and ended up with a slightly curvy decal, but I think it looks fine.

Let the vinyl dry for 30 or so minutes. Come back and peel the top surface of the sticker away, slowly and carefully. If the vinyl comes with it, put it back on the surface and wet it a little again, let it dry and retry. If you cross any gaps, cut and pinch the vinyl around the edge.

The key to having a long sticker life on the car is making sure the surface you’re applying the sticker to is dirt/dust free. Give it a good cleaning, any dirt specks will show up as bubbles on the stickers. Also, do not use Clorox and Lysol and stuff like that as it keeps the stickers from sticking to the surface and you will get peeling stickers. Happy Stickering!

Why Apply Stickers?

Because they add Horsepower DUH! Actually, they dont, infact they just add weight. However the weight they add is usually worth more than their weight in Gold. You’re putting your sponsor’s stickers on your car so they get some advertising for giving you whatever they gave you. Or you can tell everyone who looks at your car what you like (Like Colin McRae, DirtyImpreza or Team O’Neil).

May 13th, 2008 | 2 Comments

We Have a New Logo [ May 12th, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith

My good friend Dan, who wrote the “Layman’s Guide to Rally Racing” also helped me out with a new logo for Two Guys Rally. Check it:

May 12th, 2008 | 1 Comment

How To Heel-Toe Downshift: The Video [ May 9th, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith

Oh Look a Video!

Read the Text version here on Two Guys Rally.

YouTube Video. Revver Video.

May 9th, 2008 | 5 Comments

Things to Check Before a RallyCross [ May 8th, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith

Rallycross is an event where you can drive any car you choose on the dirt in a coned off course. It is analagous to Autocross but for the dirt. However, it is a motorsport, and there are things you should check on your car before you do a Rallycross.

Check Your Oil

Make sure your oil levels are in the normal range. Do not overfill your oil as it brings bubbles into the oil system (the oil gets churned up by the engine and foams) which will cause lots of stress on the engine’s bearings. Really old abused oil is not good for your cars engine for normal use, and that makes it even worse for motorsports use. The particulate that collects in motor oil can cause damage to your engine when being run real hard, so get fresher oil for those competitions.

Check Your Tire Pressure

Make sure your tire pressure is at the factory levels or higher (not above the limits of your tires!). The lower the pressure the more grip you get, sure that is great, but since this is probably your daily driver you don’t want to ‘roll a bead’. Rolling a bead means the tire’s bead comes off of your rim and deflates. This will probably damage your rim if it happens. In order to fill your tires up, most gas stations have tire pumps. I know Hess has free tire fill stations. While you’re down there make sure your lug nuts are nicely tightened to their specified torquing.

Check Your Coolant Levels

Running your engine hard means your engine has to be cooled even more than normal, so your coolant should be in the normal range and must have anti-freeze (helps with boiling in the summer!). If it does not, remedy it by adding coolant and the correct amount of anti-freeze. Read the directions on the anti-freeze when you’re doing this.

Remove Everything from Your Car

This is a good chance to clean your car of all those Taco Bell receipts and whatever else you happen to leave in your car (I leave a lot of bike tires in my car, currently there is a large orange cone too). Make sure you remove all the heavy crap from your car, like that toolbox kicking around in the rear, or your friends BMX because if you stop too fast in a Rallycross with a BMX in the back, that bike is coming to get you. I’m not saying that you should remove your spare tire or anything important, but if its in your car, make sure its secured.

Make Sure You Will Have a Helmet

Knowing you will have a helmet to compete in is nice (especially if it is yours), as it makes you less nervous the day of. Helmets are always required, if they’re not, I dont think you’re going to a real rallycross, let alone a safe one. So get your helmet ready, or make sure you can use and fit your friend’s helmet or at least make sure the organizers will have loaner helmets. Most Rallycrosses will have loaner helmets available

Prepare (at least) The Night Before

Preparing the night before allows you to actually be ready for the Rallycross in the morning, rather than scrambling to be ready that morning. So get together your shade tent, folding chairs, refreshments (not beer, driving+beer=no), food, tools, spares and what have you and put them in the car/transport vehicle. You can transport this stuff to the Rallycross in your car, just don’t race with it in there. Make sure your camera is charged and you have tape/film/space for all the neat photos/video you will record.

Get a Good Night’s Sleep

Sleep is a big part of performing well. You might as well be competitive if you chose to get up and haul your butt to the Rallycross, so sleep.

Eat a Decent Breakfast

I wouldn’t suggest McDonald’s breakfast or something that greasy as it will make you end up in the Porta-Potties. It might not normally for you but when I compete in things I get nervous before hand and that doesn’t help in that regard. So I like to eat toast and two eggs (sunny side up duh!) as that fills me up and lets me focus.

Get There Early

Showing up early only makes things easier on you. You wont be scrambling to finish registering, and you wont miss any safety meetings. You’ll get to walk the course for a longer period of time and it will keep you more relaxed.

Tape Your Cabin Intake Vent Closed

Taping your intake vents for the cabin (ONLY! Your car needs air!) shut will keep dust out of your intake filter. I know a few people over at DirtyImpreza.com do this because they’ve had many experiences where they would smell dust for weeks after the event. Only do this for the event, and only if it is really dry out. I would suggest using duct tape/ painter’s tape/ gaffer’s tape.

Check Your Brakes.

If you know how, check your brakes (bleed them if necessary) including brake pads, lines, rotors and all that jazz. You might be using your brakes a lot (depending on the course) and crappy brakes will end up in a crappy day. Most likely, your brakes will be fine.

So find your local Rallycross and go out and have a blast. It is the most fun you’ll have in your street car, I guarantee. I know Mark and I will be attending a few Rallycrosses in the Finger Lakes region (maybe even DC for me) this year. Hope to see you out there…relaxed and ready.

May 8th, 2008 | 4 Comments

People Over Value Their Cars [ May 7th, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith

Since Mark and I have been looking for a rally car, my good friend Dan Summers has been sending me many Craigslist postsings of cars for sale. Just like motorcycles, the hot hatch market is flooded with people who think their toy is worth way more than it actually is.

For an example of overvalued cars: a 1991 Honda CRX with 145,000+ miles on its transmission and engine is $1500, while a 1998 Subaru Legacy with 80,000+ miles is the same price. I’m pretty sure that Honda is a tad overpriced because its “mods” include new spark plugs, red spark plug wires and a cold air intake.

Yet another fine example of overvaluing is this lowered 1994 civic hatchback that is being sold as a “project car”.

Complete with extreme lowering and suicide doors, no running engine, (re)moved gas tank, no seats and about 15 years old, clearly this should be worth a running cruiser motorcycle ($2-4,000+). Overvalued!

I just wanted to let you know about the car market we are sifting through to find a possible deal. Occasionally we find good deals, but the good ones are snatched up before we can grab them (we’re a bit slow). Unfortunately for us, cars are not overvalued if someone is willing to pay the high price tag for them, and many are. Hopefully one of these days we get to post an excited “WE BOUGHT A CAR”, but until then, wish us luck.

May 7th, 2008 | 1 Comment

Turbochargers! - Part 2 [ May 6th, 2008 ] By:Mark Ozimek

In part one, I went over what a turbocharger does in relatively basic terms. This article will expand on the concepts I explained there, so if something does not make sense, read of it again! There is a lot to understand when it comes to designing a turbocharged engine, or selecting a specific turbo for an engine that you already have. The latter is undoubtedly more important to us, since we don’t have the resources to design an engine from the ground up.

So what things do we need to keep track of? Well, there are a few important things that take precedence over all others, and can depend on the goals of your design:

  1. Air flow supported by turbocharger at different boost levels
  2. Compressor trim
  3. Turbine A/R

I’ll go over trim and A/R before airflow, since the pieces will fit together in a more sensible manner that way.

To understand trim, we need to know what the inducer and exducer are on the compressor wheel. Both are pretty straight forward. The inducer size is the diameter of the compressor blades at the inlet. The exducer is, as you guessed, the diameter of the compressor blades at the outlet. The opposite is true for the turbine wheel, since the exhaust gas flows in at the edge and out through the center.

We can calculate trim with a simple equation: (Inducer)² / (Exducer)² * 100

So for an Inducer of 61mm and an Exducer of 82mm, the trim is 55. As a general rule of thumb, the larger the trim, the more air a turbo can flow, while smaller builds boost earlier, assuming that all other things are held equal. That said, it’s easy to change things to make a smaller trim turbo flow more than a larger trim, since the trim is just a ratio, not an actual size descriptor.

The Turbine A/R is equally straight forward, it’s the ratio between the Area of the turbine housing inlet to the Radius of the turbine housing.

Pretty simple, just divide the area by the radius to get A/R. A turbocharger with a smaller A/R will generally spool sooner and faster than one with a larger A/R, with everything else held constant. Again, like with the trim, it’s a ratio, so a larger turbo with a small A/R may spool slower than a small turbo with a larger A/R.

Now that we have those two out of the way, the air flow is pretty straight forward. Most turbocharger manufacturers have “flow map” that show how much airflow the turbo can support at various boost levels, along with the approximate wheel rpm and overall efficiency. For example, the relatively small Garrett GT2860R’s flow map looks like this:

It may be a lot to look at for the first time, but it’s actually pretty straight forward. Along the x-axis is the mass air flow, and going up in the y-axis is the amount of boost that the turbo can make at that airflow. The lines that start out horizontal and curve down to the right is the rpm the turbine and compressor wheels would be spinning at to make that amount of boost at that air flow rate.

Go past the right edge of the map and you get into a pretty inefficient region of the turbo, meaning that the compressor wheel will be heating up the air a lot when compressing it. The left edge is called the “surge line”, and you want to avoid running the turbo in this region at all costs, as it is very bad for the turbo and will lead to a premature failure. More on that later.

The y-axis’s label is exactly what it means. The pressure ratio is how much higher the output air pressure is than the inlet pressure. If the inlet of the compressor sees 14psia, at a pressure ratio of 2, the outlet will be 28psia, which is 13.3psig of boost at sea level. This is where it is important to keep the difference between relative and absolute pressure in mind. Relative pressure is the pressure above the ambient pressure, which is usually around 14.7psia (sea level). Absolute pressure is exactly that, the actual pressure created. Absolute pressure cannot be below 0, ever.

The airflow can be calculated pretty easily, though there are a few assumptions we’ll make to simplify the process.

  1. “Standard” atmospheric conditions, meaning air density is 0.0749lb/ft3, or 0.002645lb/L
  2. Engine volumetric efficiency is constant at 95%, meaning the throttle valve is fully open.
  3. Pressure losses in intercooler, air hoses and air filter are negligible. (They aren’t in reality)

Now all we have to do is multiply a couple things:

Mass Air Flow = Air Density * Engine Displacement * (RPM/2) * Volumetric Efficiency * Pressure Ratio

For example, a 2.3L engine at 6000RPM with 10psig of boost:

Pressure ratio = (10psig + 14.7psi) / 14.7psia = 1.68

0.002645lb/L * 2.3L * (6000RPM / 2) * 0.95 * 1.68 = 29.12lb/min

So how does this help us interpret the flow map? Well, here is where 29.12lb/min and 1.68 pressure ratio lies on the map:

As you can see, it’s outside of the efficiency range of the turbo. While it does appear that it can flow that much air at that pressure, it will be heating it up excessively in the process, putting a large demand on the intercooler, and increasing the backpressure in the engine to excessive levels. A bigger turbo would be preferred, but we have to be careful how big we go. Two obvious things, and one not so obvious. First, the bigger the turbo, the more air it can flow. Second, bigger turbos take more time and airflow to spool up. Third, and possibly the most important, but often overlooked, is that we need to make sure we don’t go past the surge line of the turbo. We can prevent this when the throttle is suddenly closed by using a compressor bypass valve or blowoff valve, but we must make sure that the turbo isn’t so large that the engine causes the compressor wheel to hit the surge line under moderate load (low air flow) with high boost pressure.

We know now that the GT2860R is too small for our example engine, so let’s move a step up in the Garrett turbo family to the GT3071:

This might actually be a little bit too much turbo, but leaves the option for us to increase the boost a whole bunch without running out of breath. We’ll just have to be careful not to hit the surge limit at lower rpm if we do so. Careful boost control with the wastegate and electronic boost controller will work well.

Speaking of wastegates, there are two very important things used to control the pressure ratio and airflow of a turbo to prevent overboosting and crossing over into the surge area. The wastegate is one of them, the compressor bypass valve (CBV) and blowoff valve (BOV) is the other.

What the wastegate does is allows exhaust gas to flow around the turbine wheel, instead of through it. This allows the engine to flow a lot of air without forcing the turbo wheels to spin at full speed all the time. Typically what happens is the wastegate is closed when below a certain boost level, and slowly opens past that level to control the amount of pressure the compressor wheel generates. This also reduces backpressure on the engine a bit, which is always a good thing.

The CBV and BOV are on the intake side of the engine, and are meant to prevent the compressor from surging. They do the exact same thing, with one minor difference. The BOV vents air to the atmosphere, while the CBV puts the air back into the intake, after the mass air flow sensor and before the compressor. What happens is when the pressure gets above a preset value, the valve opens to allow the compressor to maintain the air flow it was doing before. Typically what happens is the throttle valve will close suddenly while turbo is making a lot of boost with lots of airflow (ie: upshifting during hard acceleration). The closure of the throttle basically drops the air flow to 0lb/min. Look at the compressor map, and note how this is left of the surge line, definitely a bad thing. The CBV and BOV allows air to keep flowing during this time to prevent surge. Then the boost will decrease or engine airflow will increase again, at which point the valve will shut. There is a very important thing I would like to note about CBVs and BOVs. Never use a BOV on an engine that uses a mass air flow measurement (MAF) system. When you vent air to the atmosphere at the BOV, it has already gone past the MAF sensor, and the ECU thinks that this air will be going into the engine. As a result, there will be fuel injected for that amount of air, when it is really less. This leads to an excessively rich condition in the engine. This definitely not an optimal solution, for a whole bunch of reasons, from how excess fuel decreases performance to the damaging effects on the catalytic converter when the engine runs too rich. Since the engine only runs rich while the BOV is venting, it’s not the end of the world.

Now you know a little more about turbochargers, and what you need to do in order to select the right turbo for your applications. There is still more to cover though, such as more in depth calculations, what to do with the AFR and ignition timing when boost increases, why compression ratio must be decreased to allow for more boost, and so forth, so stick around for part 3.

May 6th, 2008 | 3 Comments

Rally Racing Online [ May 5th, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith

I posted earlier about how I was competing in an Online Rally League called Rally Simdrivers League. The guys over at DirtyImpreza.com dragged me into the competition and I ended up getting 6th place in my first rally. That was back when I was new and slow. Now that I have finished the Australia Rally, I’m pretty confident that I’ll be competitive with the top three. Stage times for Rally Australia were:

SS1 Mineshaft - 5:24:51
SS2 EastWest - 6:43:97 (rolled across finish line, lol)
SS3 NewBobsI - 5:51:12
SS4 NewBobII - 5:53:64
SS5 EastWestII - 6:49:00
SS6 GreenHills - 4:01:70

Total Rally Time: 34:43:94 Here are some highlights from SS2 for your viewing pleasure:

May 5th, 2008 | Leave a Comment

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