Mistakes Not To Make #1 [ August 19th, 2008 ] By: Charles Smith Posted in » Tips and Tricks

There are some mistakes that anyone is bound to make at some point in a racing career. Those mistakes can either cost you time or, at the worst, a crash. Today’s is Forget to Look Ahead.

Looking ahead is not some cheesy term about how bright the future is, but a more practical EYEBALL oriented piece of advice. It means looking further along the track/road than you first would think you should. It means looking past corners as you enter them and onto whatever landmarks you can. There are a few bad things that occur when forgetting to looking ahead:

  • Makes Everything Seem Faster - objects that are closer to you seem to be faster when compared to objects that are further away (Mountains vs Trees vs Telephone poles on a highway/train). Feeling fast will more likely scare you than speed you up. Scared people also like coming off the throttle and pressing on the brake even if they should not.
  • Fatigues Your Eyes - Looking close to the car requires more eye movement, when compared to looking far ahead at equal speeds, in order to fixate. Keep in mind, you shouldn’t be fixating, I was just using that as a point.
  • You Drive Where Your Eyes Are Looking - It is hard to fight that you will drive where your eyes are looking (hence why you keep your eyes on the road). So look where you want to go, forgetting this could make you end up in a place you don’t want to be.

So dont forget to look ahead, even on the road. Look where you want to go, not where you’re going or where you have been. I bet that could even work for a life metaphor. (Soon TwoGuysRally will be a lifecoaching website and not a rally site </sarcasm>)

Jumps Are Neat [ May 30th, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith

While jumps are neat, when paired with 80s music they are even more awesome. CHECK IT:

YouTube video.

May 30th, 2008 | Leave a Comment

Acceleration: A Safety Feature [ May 29th, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith

A friend of mine and I were having an argument about acceleration being a safety feature or not. I contend that a car that can accelerate in both directions (gas and brake) is safer than a car that cannot. I feel that a car that brakes quickly is good but also a car that can get out of the way is also good. Avoiding accidents sometimes requires a bit of brake as well as the gas.

What do you think about acceleration?

May 29th, 2008 | 7 Comments

How To Put Your Car On Jackstands [ May 28th, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith

What You Will Need

  • Jackstands
  • Jack (either for your car or a general jack)

Putting Your Car on Jackstands

  1. Put your car in gear (or park for autos) and make sure the parking brake is on.
  2. Find a jackpoint on the car’s frame. It will be metal and solid, not flimsy.
  3. Start jacking up your car from that point.
  4. Slide the jackstand under the frame (not plastic!!!) or jackpoint.
  5. Drop the jack to lower your car onto the jackstand.
  6. Remove the jack from under the car.
  7. Repeat on the other side of the car (LEFT-RIGHT, not front-back).

Put the car up on jackstands on both sides of the car (left and right) as it is safer. If you are going to be taking wheels off, break the lugnuts loose before you jack up the car.

Why Put Your Car On Jackstands?

Because it is the only safe way to work under your car. Never work under your car when it is only supported by jacks, they go down as well as they go up! If you have a hydraulic lift…I am jealous and you should be using that (also can we use that?)

May 28th, 2008 | 1 Comment

Upcoming Events [ May 27th, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith

TwoGuysRally is going to be all over the place this summer. We hope to attend many events including:

  • June 6th-8th - Susquehanna Trail Performance Rally (STPR - not competing, just watching)
  • June 14th - WDCR SCCA RallyCross (Just Charles)
  • June 27th - FLR SCCA RallyCross (I think we’re both competing)
  • July 11th-12th - New England Forest Rally (not competing, just watching)
  • August 9th - FLR SCCA RallyCross (both of us?)
  • August ??? - DirtyImpreza.com East Coast Meet (Pennsylvania)

That combined with all sorts of other personal things and work, it looks like it will be a busy summer for us here at TwoGuysRally. If anyone would like to come to any of the events above just drop a comment or send us an email.

Any suggestions for other things for us to do this summer?

May 27th, 2008 | Leave a Comment

Sounds From Inside a WRX Intake [ May 26th, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith

I got bored one day and decided to stick the external microphone that I use on my video camera, in the entrance of the airbox on my stock 2006 Subaru WRX. Then I went for a short drive to see what I got. I was happy with the results and I think its pretty interesting to hear what is going on inside the intake:

Youtube video. Revver video.

May 26th, 2008 | 4 Comments

Congrats Class of 2008 [ May 23rd, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith

I realize this isn’t related to Rally in general, but it is related to Two Guys Rally. RIT’s class of 2008 Graduated today (and continues tomorrow). I would like to give a well earned Congratulations to the graduates! Congrats!

May 23rd, 2008 | Leave a Comment

Safety Wiring Bolts [ May 22nd, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith

Safety Wiring is a pretty common thing in most motorsports. I like to think of it as a mechanical thread lock(Loctite/Teflon Tape), but much easier to remove.

What It Is

Safety wire is wire that is passed through holes in bolt heads that is twisted, wrapped and secured in such a way that the bolts cannot loosen without removing the safety wire. The wire is secured to either other bolts (preferable) or mounting points built in to the component.

Why Safety Wire?

Safety wiring is required for various motorsport leagues as it is the only safe way to secure certain critical bolts. Loctite and Teflon Tape can too often fail and let the bolt unscrew. It is impossible for the bolts to unscrew when safety wired correctly, without the safety wire first failing. It can also be thought of as a warning system. It is the first sign of failure without being a critical one.

Safety Wire is used most commonly on suspension and brake components. A failure of either of those would be catastrophic to the car and driver.

It is pretty simple to do, however it is tedious. Who better to explain how to do it than the website I stole the above picture from? NO ONE. Check it out.

May 22nd, 2008 | 2 Comments

Rally Racing Online: Funny Things Happen In Competitions [ May 21st, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith

Competitions, even in video games, make some fun things happen. I have two videos for you to see. Silliness really, but here they are:

Video one. Video two.

May 21st, 2008 | 2 Comments

Hunting for Performance Loss Causes [ May 20th, 2008 ] By:Mark Ozimek

Recently I have noticed a lack of power in the upper RPM range of my S70. Considering that it is now 10 years old and has just over 146k miles, I’m sure there are a whole bunch of things that are causing problems in one way or another, from dirty fuel injectors to leaks in the air hoses. Part of being a good driver or co-driver on a rally team is being able to quickly and accurately diagnose faults with your car that impact the performance. Also, being the engineering oriented car enthusiast that I am, I like knowing what is going on under the hood of my car.

So immediately, there is a list of probable causes to this performance reduction.

  1. A hole or tear in an air hose.
  2. Compressor bypass valve (CBV) failure.
  3. Turbo control valve (TCV), AKA boost control solenoid (BCS) failure.
  4. Significant restriction in the exhaust system.

A hole or tear in an air hose can cause a vacuum or boost leak, depending on where it is. This will cause the reading from the MAF sensor to be incorrect, and will throw off the base pressure upon which some of the turbocharger’s boost control devices operate on. A significant leak will cause the ECU to throw an error and turn on the Check Engine light, as well as significantly decrease fuel economy, neither of which have happened, so it’s actually rather likely that this isn’t the cause.

The compressor bypass valve (CBV) is a known weak spot, being integrated into the compressor housing, it has to endure a lot of heat and vibration. Tears in the valve diaphragm develop over time and allow air to circulate back to the compressor inlet when the engine is under load, which we definitely do not want.

Another part that is known to fail on this car is the turbo control valve (TCV), or boost control solenoid (BCS). Either name works, they’re the same thing. It operates based on a duty cycle from the ECU and the pressure difference before and after the compressor, and sends the ‘resultant’ pressure to the wastegate actuator to control the boost pressure. If this solenoid is stuck open, the wastegate will open before it should, and the turbo will never develop significant amounts of boost.

A restriction behind the turbocharger can also cause a significant performance decrease, for example, the catalytic converter failing and clogging up. Any backpressure on the turbine wheel increases how hard the turbine must work to generate a certain boost level by a lot, so this is also a sensitive spot. It is also the easiest to check for, and is what I am doing today.

As you can see, it is most likely related to the turbocharger. Unfortunately Volvo did not see the need to include a factory boost gauge in the instrumentation cluster, nor do I have a gauge on hand to test to make sure the pressure is at 10 psig like it should be.

So, with limited diagnostic resources at hand, there are really two choices I have; Check for leaks, or see if there is a restriction in the exhaust. I decided to check for the latter, since checking for vacuum leaks would entail replacing hoses to see if anything changes, and I do not have appropriate hose with me.

Starting off, there is a nice heat shield around the exhaust manifold and turbocharger to keep the engine bay temps down a bit, so I’ll remove that to get to the downpipe which I will unbolt to allow for gas to flow directly out of the turbine housing, bypassing any restriction. Be sure to do this work when the car is cold, as the exhaust system can get VERY hot.

Now with the heat shield out of the way, I have access to the bolts holding the downpipe on. A 13mm socket fit perfectly. After loosening the bolts, I pulled the downpipe off the turbo outlet flange:

After pulling it back enough to create a significant gap, I started the car, and went for a short test drive. I could tell that a significant amount of air was bypassing the exhaust system through that gap from the sound of the air blowing through, and the exhaust smell in the cabin. I ended up opening the windows to get some fresh air, since carbon monoxide poisoning sucks.

After doing some hard acceleration after the car had warmed up, I found that there was very little difference in the performance of the car. It had become significantly louder though, quite similar to the sound of a diesel truck, and surely in violation of noise ordinances. Fortunately, that rules out restriction in the exhaust causing the performance issues, since it would have been an expensive fix, working against the money Charles and I are trying to save up for the rally car. So I put everything back together. Always make sure to use proper torque for tightening things up in the exhaust to prevent leaks or cracking. Volvo specifies 30 Nm of torque for the downpipe bolts.

Before putting the heat shield back on, I decided to investigate two of my other leads: the CBV and the TCV. The CBV is totally caked in dirt and oil, which makes me highly suspicious of a leak there. The only way to find out if it has failed would be to replace it, which I plan on doing since it is an inexpensive part.

The TCV was harder to look at, since it was hiding underneath the air intake hose. It did appear normal aside from the electrical tape, but looks can be deceiving, so this is next in line if replacing the CBV diaphragm doesn’t do anything.

It looks like I need to brush up on my diagnostic skills a bit, since I was not able to find the fault in an afternoon’s work. When I find out what is wrong, I’ll post a guide on what happened and how to fix it, since boost related performance issues appear all the time on turbocharged cars as they age.

May 20th, 2008 | 2 Comments

How To Remove the Snorkus On a 2006 Subaru WRX [ May 19th, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith

I was reading about an intake resonator that my car has called a “Snorkus”. It is technically referred to as a Helmholtz Resonator, but Snorkus is way cooler. Just think of it as an upside down snorkel on the intake, because that is what it is. The whole point of the snorkus is to reduce intake sound (and on the naturally aspirated version there is a resonance on the intake, because of valve movement, that it works to defeat). Where’s the fun in a quiet car? I didn’t see any.

So Mark and I took a look at the intake system of my WRX. We figured that I could get away with not having a Snorkus and everything I had read about the WRX intake helped confirm that. We decided to remove it.

*DISCLAIMER* Removing your Snorkus may or may not VOID your warranty. I cannot be blamed for anything happening to you or your car related to this “mod” *DISCLAIMER*

Removing the Snorkus

Things you’ll need:

  1. Jack
  2. Jack Stands
  3. Lugnut Wrench (19mm)
  4. Small Flat-Blade Screw Driver
  5. 10mm Socket w/ Ratchet
  6. Foam Tape (1/4″)

We started off by removing the ram air intake portion. This requires a 10mm socket and fingers to remove the bolts. There are only two bolts holding this part on and they’re easily accessed. Mark is un-screwing the bolts in the picture below.

Next, loosen the lug nuts on your front right wheel and then jack up your car. Place the jack stand under your lift point. Go ahead and jack up the left side of the car and place it on jack stands too (safer to have both sides on jackstands). You might want to make sure your car is off, in gear and the parking brake is on. Finally once your front wheels are off the ground take the front right wheel off of the car.

Now with your jack stands safely supporting the car you have to remove three plastic pins from your front fender. This is so you can peel the wheel liner away from the fender temporarily. So using your flat-blade screw driver, pop the pins out (don’t rip them out). Here is a picture of two of the pins removed, the third one is further to the front of the fender.

Now with the pins out of your front fender, push your wheel liner toward the back of the car and peel it back and out of the way. It is pretty flexible, but your fender isn’t nearly as flexible (don’t try and bend your fender a lot). You should end up with something looking like:

The big white bulbous thing is the Snorkus. That is what we are here to remove. But there are two bolts holding it in place. One of those bolts is easy to get to, it is in the engine bay by the hole your ram air exits in to, but the other is in a not so nice place. It is on the front side of the big bulbous part inside the fender. You need a 10mm socket/wrench to loosen these bolts. Here is a picture of the bolts:

Remove the bolts, the suggested order is: remove the one in the fender first, so when you remove the last bolt, the snorkus doesn’t fall onto your face. Mark posed with the oddly shaped snorkus:

Now your car should be without a snorkus. So put the wheel liner back in its place and push the pins back into the fender (pull the center part of the pin out of the plastic housing a bit, makes it easier to push them back in). You have succesfully removed the snorkus. Put your wheel back on and tighten up the lugnuts (remember star pattern!). Take the car off the jack stands and tighten your lug nuts to the specified torque (read your owners manual).

We decided to leave the ram air on the car to push colder air into the fender, rather than the fender filling up with engine bay air (not much of a performance gain, but maybe some?). But if we left it there as it was, it would rattle against the ABS lines (you can see them above). Our solution was to use foam tape where the ram air would hit the ABS lines. It is cheap and easy (just the way we like it). So put some foam tape on the bottom of your ram air, it should look something like this:

Just reattach the ram air, make sure your car is in working order and BAM: Go drive your car and see what it feels/sounds like.

What I noticed driving around without a Snorkus is a much louder Compressor Bypass Valve. So when you come off the throttle, it sounds like you have a Blow Off Valve, but your engine is not going to be running really rich every time you shift. Low in the RPM range, when the engine is loaded, it sounds rumblier/growlier too. This ended up being a free way to make my car sound like a new machine to me.

May 19th, 2008 | 1 Comment

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