One More Reason Turbochargers Rule [ November 19th, 2008 ] By: Charles Smith Posted in » Ramblings

It has been getting cold around here and sitting still in a car does nothing to help keep warm. Luckily I drive a WRX and that means it is turbocharged. Besides the added torque/power it makes, one really nice thing in the winter is that my car heats up faster.

Turbos spin really effing fast, and most turbos are cooled and lubed by the engine oil. The turbocharger is transferring heat from the exhaust gasses and its own spinning into the oil. This beautiful heat transfer results in warmer overall oil and so your cabin heaters work that much faster.

Oh how I do love my turbocharged car. There is one caveat, with the turbocharged car you have to be much more careful about running the engine hard (especially when it is cold) and shutting off the engine too soon after running hard. If the turbo gets very hot from running hard, shutting off the engine shuts off oil flow to the turbocharger. The oil left in it can burn off/cake in the turbo (BAD!!!).

The Layman’s Guide to Rally Racing: A Guest Post [ April 16th, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith and Mark Ozimek

My knowledge of the rally world is limited. Limited to Xbox games and Youtube videos of deer slamming into the hood of an oncoming car and then flying several directions at once. Hell, I can barely pull out of my driveway without rolling my car, much less speed along skinny, muddy, bumpy deer butchering facilities. Maybe that’s what makes the sport so amazing to me: the drivers’mastery of adverse conditions. Whereas other automotive enthusiasts make excuses like, “the track was wet,” or “the sun was especially bright today,” or, in NASCAR’s case, “I got a cramp from turning left again,” rally drivers boast technical difficulties like “I landed on some spectators. On my roof,” or “I had to drive six miles with my hood obscuring my view and ended up losing a couple seconds.” Positively manly.

I guess what I’m trying to say is that, where other sports involving the internal combustion engine showcase things like technology (F1), ingenuity (American National Unimotorcyclists Society) or hickitude (dirt track racing), WRX displays what can only described as stupi-err, grit and determination and skill. When you drive one of these things, you get more shit flying at your grill than the star of a niche porn video. Plus, just when you get attached to your car, BAM! You take a bump too fast and your wheels now look like the Delorean in Back to the Future II.

Don’t get me wrong, this article isn’t all adulation. What kind of lazy bastard needs someone to tell them how to turn? Or even go straight? The co-drivers in these things are so fucking mouthy, it’s like being married. “Left three, right three, you’re lost, aren’t you? Why don’t you stop and ask for directions? Oh, the Pastranas invited us over for brunch after this stage.” Were I the driver, I’d be looking for the nearest cliff to drive off of. Instant TV ratings! I wouldn’t be able to watch it, though, since I’d be paralyzed from the skull down. That, and the only way it would show up on TV is in some SpikeTV clip show where the announcer sounds like an edgy nineties surfer guy, duuuuude.

But, to the point of this article: How to pretend to know what you’re talking about when discussing this sport with a friend. I’ll let you in on the magic words: Colin McRae. Casually drop this name (“Hey, that cloud looks like Colin McRae!” or “I’m sorry to hear about your Mother’s cancer Colin McRae,” work wonders) and wait for your buddy to expound on either how great McRae is or how overrated he is. Either way, you’re off the hook. Oh, and don’t mention helicopters. Other polarizing topics of discussion: Mitsubishi vs. Subaru, snow vs. dirt, special stage vs. superspecial stage (not made up), Paris vs. Dakar, Ali vs. Foreman, paper vs. plastic, hell, disagree with them about the weather. It’s easy to work these people into a lather, because, well, they’re crazy. Should they chase you, scream “Left two!” and then go right. They’ll never see it coming.

Finnish Rally DriversOther things to look out for: Finns. Finnish people seem to be good at driving cars, and, because their country is a wasteland so awful that not even Russia wanted it, they’re all excellent at driving in the most shit of conditions. In Finnish high schools they have two career paths: driver or black metal band. Your choice pretty much hinges on how much makeup you like to wear. For extra points, try not laughing at names like Tapio Rainio and Hannu Mikkola. I think one’s named after a pudding and the other’s named after a cell phone.

“Rallies.” Sure, I mean, a rally’s a rally, but if it’s not World Rally Championship, it ain’t shit. Unless it is shit. Like, actual poop. Things like Gumball 3000 have cars killing people, but it’s not the same if it’s a bunch of rich guys driving around and getting drunk and then driving some more. We’re lookin’ for a different kind of irresponsibility here. If watching rich people drive cars that your eyes are too poor to even look at is your idea of a good time, go for it, but don’t forget that you can watch regular people drive regular cars down at your local highway. Please go sit in the middle of that thing.

Non rally drivers. Sure, that guy’s got a great looking Evo VIII but rest assured that he wouldn’t even consider getting that thing dirty. Because he is a huge pussy with too much money and not enough derring-do. Why, why buy all that engineering and then do nothing but drive to the club with it? To pick up chicks. Wait, ignore everything I just wrote, this guy knows what he’s doing.

False prophets. These are guys who’ll tell you all about how to enjoy rally racing and what to look out for, even when they don’t know shit. They’ll probably start off by talking about Colin McRae and then hope you take it from there while they nod in agreement. They have a little trick where they try and make YOU screw up in a conversation, because if you both know nothing, whoever calls the other one out first wins. They may also weasel into other topics, like the political climate of central African nations and the effects of American foreign pol-Colin McRae.

Look, there’re plenty of resources out there to find out all sorts of great stuff about this, like wikipedia, video games, and the SPEED channel at 3am on a Tuesday, if you’re lucky. I don’t really have time to hold your hand through all this, I’ve gotta roll my car back over. It’s stuck in my driveway.

About the Author: Dan Summers is a RIT Mechanical Engineering student due to graduate in 2009. Unfortunately for you, he does not consistently blog and I have no where to send you for more of his witty writings.

April 16th, 2008 | 5 Comments

How To Handbrake Turn [ April 15th, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith

Performing the Handbrake Turn

  1. Approach the Corner at 20-25mph (in 1st or 2nd Gear)
  2. Turn Into the Corner with lots of Steering Input
  3. Clutch In
  4. Hold Button on the Handbarke In
  5. Pull the Handbrake Up HARD
  6. Wait for Car to Rotate
  7. Drop the Handbrake (button still depressed)
  8. Straighten the Wheels
  9. Clutch Out and Go

The key to the handbrake turn is having enough speed to rotate the car and pulling up on the handbrake with enough force to break the traction of the rear wheels. Remember to Clutch In before you pull up on the handbrake in AWD and RWD cars. If you do not, the engine will stall or you will hurt your transmission and brakes.

The steps will blur together as you get better at this. Steps 3, 4 and 5 will be almost simultaneous and steps 7, 8 and 9 will start to blend together also. At first, focus on getting the car to rotate and learning how long you have to keep the handbrake applied before dropping it and getting your move on.

If the car is still not rotating, very light foot braking can help the car lose rear wheel traction as it unweights the rear end. As with any driving maneuver you must practice it to know how to do it right. So find a safe place to do it, preferably a loose surface. As always, with most sliding techniques, high center of gravity cars are more dangerous to do this in.

Why Perform a Handbrake Turn?

Sometimes the fastest way around a corner is to slide around it. This is especially true through a hairpin turn where a 180 degree rotation is required.

The handbrake is also used to correct mild understeer mid-corner and tighten up a sloppy wide corner. Although in North American rally races you do not see the handbrake used as widely as it is in the WRC races. I wonder why that is…

Anyway, with a FWD car you can actually apply power to the ground while the handbrake is up. This is very handy for getting the car to rotate without losing as much speed in very slippery conditions. Remember, stay safe and don’t keep repeating it too many times after you get it right.

April 15th, 2008 | 4 Comments

Ditch Gasoline?! [ April 14th, 2008 ] By:Mark Ozimek

So Charles and I were talking about the engines in rally cars the other day, specifically how the horsepower in the WRC is limited to 300hp. If you have read my article on engine power and torque, you’ll realize that this means they have the option to make amazing amounts of torque at lower rpm while staying under that 300hp limit. It is possible to design a gasoline engine to stay close to 300hp for a good part of the rpm band. Just size the turbo right so that there is a lot of boost down low and use a control system to taper off the boost in higher rpm to not exceed the power limits, coupled with a well-configured camshaft profile and such.

This type of power output curve very closely resembles that of an electric motor. The most torque is seen at or very close to 0 rpm, with the power output being pretty constant through the rpm range. This torque makes an electric motor great for starting off the line, or coming out of slow corners with lots of acceleration. There is another aspect of an electric motor that makes it far superior for the responsiveness that rally racing requires: the power response is instantaneous. With an internal combustion engine (abbreviated ICE), the throttle valve opens when you push the pedal down. This allows more air to flow into the engine, the ECU will see this through various monitoring methods and inject for fuel to keep the mixture close to what is required for the conditions (usually around 12:1 to 14:1). Then the exhaust gas flows through the turbine wheel, makes the turbine and compressor spin faster, increasing the pressure in the intake, causing even more air to enter the engine, creating more power. As you can see, there are quite a few steps involved here. The throttle response of a typical ICE is considered to be pretty fast, which is why they are used in cars, but in comparison, the electric motor is much must faster.

Simply press the accelerator pedal (not a throttle anymore!), the power control circuitry will allow more current to flow through the motor, and the motor creates more torque. No waiting for air to accelerate into the engine, no waiting for the ECU to compensate for this extra air with more fuel, no waiting for the exhaust to flow past the turbine to spool it up. It’s nearly instantaneous in comparison.

There are quite a few other advantages to electric motors aside from this. The thermal efficiency is often >80%, while a typical high performance ICE will be lucky to get 15% efficiency out of the gasoline it burns. The overall package size and weight of the engine itself is greatly in favor of the electric motor. Same with reliability: a gasoline engine has a lot of moving parts from the crankshaft up to the valvetrain, while an electric motor just has the core that spins.

The two of us sat there and discussed this topic for quite a while, and realized how amazing it would be. There is just one significant technical hurdle left to overcome: the batteries. Getting the range and power output needed for a rally car will weigh a lot. However, it is definitely something to consider as a possibility for the future of rally racing. What do you think about it? What other unforeseen problems do you think there would be? We would really like to hear what you think.

April 14th, 2008 | 5 Comments

An Explanation of What Rally Racing Is [ April 13th, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith

Mark and I took for granted that you probably knew what Rally Racing was if you were here, and we’re sorry about that. So here is an explanation of what Rally Racing is.

The Basics of Rally Racing

Rally Racing is a motorsport that takes place on public type roads (ie not race tracks) while using street-legal cars. The race is not done in a head-to-head manner, but in stages that are timed. There are three types of stages in Rally: the transit stage, the special stage and the super-special stage.

The Transit Stage

In order to get to a special stage, the Rally prepared cars have to travel there under their own power on roads that are open to the public (yes, you can drive next to a real race car). They have a time limit to get there and are limited by the speed limits and the laws in that area. If they fail to make it to the special stage on-time the competitor car will incur a time penalty for their overall time or possibly a disqualification.

The Special Stage

A special stage is where the actual racing happens. The competitor car starts the special stage and must make its way to the end of the special stage as fast as it can. The time it takes to get to the end of the special stage is recorded and added to the total rally time. After the completion of the special stage the competitor moves on to the next special stage. Special stages are normal roads closed off from public car traffic, and are often lined with spectators watching the stage.

The Super Special Stage

I know I said there were no closed racetracks and no head to head racing in Rally, but I was lying a bit. Special stages are the majority of a Rally, while Super Special stages are often the final timed portion of a rally. In a Super Special, two competitors race head to head, but on separate tracks (much like a drag race but more twisty and dirty). The race takes place in a closed loop that has a crossover section so the two competitors that are racing race the same distance. The time it takes them to complete this stage is recorded and added to the total rally time.

How a Rally is Won

The winner of the Rally is determined by the least total time. This is calculated by adding up all the special stage times (including super special stages) and the time penalties incurred. That’s it? What makes it interesting? You just see one car race around all alone and then times are compared and a winner is declared?

Good questions, but what makes it interesting was already written down: it is raced on normal roads and not racetracks. So what is a normal road? Normal roads are not always smooth tarmac like we normally drive on, but they included single lane gravel roads, dirt paths we can legally call a road, snow covered tarmac and even what you would consider a normal road. This may not seem to be an interesting race at first, but when you see what a ‘normal’ road turns into when going 60-100mph you will understand. Common dips and crests will turn into jumps that send cars 6 feet off the ground. Nasty pot holes will rip car’s wheels off. Snowy roads will have cars traveling sideways at speeds that would scare you, and that’s the expected way of travel!

I am not a fan of racing for its accidents, in fact I cringe when I see the cars break, but if I were to watch a motorsport for accidents it would always be Rally. Drivers misjudging the grip they have going into a corner may slide right off the road (off a cliff even), or into a river, or if they suddenly have too much grip maybe they’ll roll their car many times. The point is that Rally has it all, and they do it on roads we can drive on our way to work.

Here’s the kicker: Rallies happen in cars that are just like ours. While they are modified heavily, they share our frames, sometimes our drivetrains and in some classes they are almost exactly like our cars with added safety features. So do a quick search for Rally Racing on youtube and check it out, I know you wont be disappointed.

April 13th, 2008 | 3 Comments

How To J-Turn - The Video [ April 11th, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith


If you would like to read about how to do it, see our text article here on TwoGuysRally.

Video on YouTube. Video on Revver.

April 11th, 2008 | 3 Comments

How To J-Turn (James Bond Reverse to Forward) [ April 10th, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith

Performing the J-Turn

  1. Shift to Reverse
  2. Go in a straight line backwards at a good speed(higher speed for more grippy surfaces)
  3. Take your foot off the gas abruptly
  4. Jerk the steering wheel Right or Left (Left for an actual J as seen from above)
  5. Clutch in
  6. Move the gear selector to Neutral (BE SURE YOU’RE IN NEUTRAL!)
  7. Clutch out and then Clutch in (This step is the double clutch, it will make the reverse to 1st/2nd gear transition easier on the transmission)
  8. Move the gear selector to 1st/2nd gear (keep one hand on the wheel!)
  9. Once the car starts pointing in the direction of travel bring the Steering wheel to straight ahead
  10. Clutch out and Gas! GOGOGO

The speed required for a J-turn increases with grip. The faster you’re going in reverse, the easier the car will whip around, but also the easier it will be to lose complete control of the car. The first few times it is attempted, don’t worry about forcing the transmission into 1st or 2nd gear, focus on the speed and steering inputs (also safety!).

J-turns are not like the other how-to articles on this site, they are jerky and not smooth. Quick pedal movements and quick steering inputs upset the balance of the car making it possible to complete the 180 degree rotation.

Why Perform a J-Turn

Why not?! You get to look like James Bond doing it. While it is mostly a for show technique it does have a legitimate use: spin recovery. After a spin, you might be facing the completely wrong direction, and a J-Turn is a fast and dangerous way to save some recovery time.

So go out and find a safe place to practice a J-turn. A safe place means somewhere you are allowed to do this and has lots of space so you will not hit anything. Keep in mind it is much easier on loose stuff or wet tarmac than the grippy dry pavement we find all over. I would not suggest doing this in high center of gravity vehicles such as an SUV as the risk of rollover is huge.

Here’s a video version: How To J-Turn - The Video.

April 10th, 2008 | 2 Comments

Engine performance: Torque and Horsepower [ April 8th, 2008 ] By:Mark Ozimek

Time and time again, I see people all over arguing the endless debate in engine design: Torque vs Horsepower, and which one is better. Although I am aware that ending this debate is impossible, and trying to do so would be quite insane, I wish to share what the engineer in me thinks matters most.

A quick crash course in physics for those who are not familiar with the topic. There is a very simple relationship between acceleration, mass and Force: F=m*a. Bear with me here, we have a lot of fun material to cover.

For cars, the force that causes the car to accelerate and decelerate (braking!) is generated by the tires and the ground. There is a torque at the wheels that causes the wheels to rotate. The fricton between the tire and the ground converts this torque into a force. This force is equal to the torque applied to the wheels divided by the radius of the wheel, with this radius measured from the center to the tire’s contact surface with the ground. This is assuming that the tire is not slipping. If it is slipping, then the force is dependant upon a lot of other things, like the surface conditions, friction coefficient, how fast the surface of the tire is sliding across the ground, temperature, and a few others.

With our intentions of rally racing, we obviously want the most acceleration possible to get out of slow corners quickly, while still having a fairly fast top speed for the straighter sections of the course. We can rewrite the relationship given above to be a = F/m, which implies that either increasing the Force or decreasing the mass will improve the acceleration of the car. The mass would simply be the mass of the car, more commonly refered to as the weight. I won’t get into how this affects acceleration yet, since this is an article on the engine, not weight reduction.

Now since more force determines acceleration, and the force increases with more torque, you’re most likely thinking: “AHA! So torque really does detemine the acceleration of the vehicle”. You are correct to think this, but there is a catch: it’s the torque at the wheels that matters. Taking it a step further, it is the engine torque and overall gear ratio that determines the torque at the wheels. This may seem obvious, but this is why acceleration is greater in 1st gear than a higher gear, such as 2nd or 4th. The gear ratio is much higher in lower gears, causing the torque that the engine generates to be multiplied by a factor of 8-15 in first down to around 1.5-3 in fifth gear, depending on the gearbox setup.

The consequence of this is that the output rpm from the transmission is much lower in the lower gears, so it is difficult to reach high speeds in low gears unless you’re using an F1 engine that hits the rev limiter at 19,000rpm. So now we have three factors to consider, the torque the engine is creating, the gear that the car is in, and the engine speed, to determine the acceleration of the car and the speed that it is traveling at.

So where does horsepower come into play? It’s quite simple actually. Using the imperial system, horsepower, torque and engine rpm can be related very simply: HP = (torque * rpm) / 5252. That bottom number is just the combination of factors used in unit conversion, since HP is a measure of power (who would have thought?!) which is an amount of work done per unit time. As a visual representation of the relationship between these three things, consider two power sources that I will use in an example later: One that puts out a constant amount of power, and one that puts out a constant amount of torque.

Constant Horsepower

Constant Torque

Realistically, an engine’s power and torque curves will look more like this, for a well configured turbocharged engine:

Realistic power curves

Work and torque are the same thing, in a twisted sense. Work is measured by a force applied over a certain distance. Pounds is a force and a foot is distance. Say you pressed on a block with 200 lbs of force over a distance of one foot. You just did 200 ft-lb of work.

To convert it into power, the time it took to do this amount of work is needed. Let’s assume that you’re a strong guy, and managed to do 200 ft-lb of work in just a half second. This means that you generated 400 ft-lb/s of power. Way back in the day, it was decided that there are 550 ft-lb/s of power in one horsepower. This means that you just generated 0.72hp when you moved that object in a half second.

To clarify power further, consider two different power sources, a turbocharged gasoline engine and an electric motor. The gasoline engine puts out a constant amount of torque through a broad rpm range (not really, but go with it for simplification of the explanation), while an electric engine puts out a pretty constant amount of horsepower, but has a very high RPM limit. To achieve the same range in speed, the turbocharged gasoline engine needs a gearbox to vary the ratio between the engine speed and wheel speed. The electric motor does not need this gearbox, as it has lots of torque at 0 rpm and can spin much faster. The electric motor will have a pretty smooth acceleration curve. The most acceleration will be seen when starting from a stop, due to the high torque at low rpm. As speed increases, the accleration tapers off because the motor creates a constant power; at high rpm, the torque is very low. On the other hand, the gasoline engine will produce an acceleration curve that looks like a step function. It generates a consistent amount of torque through the usable rpm range. As a result the acceleration in each gear is roughly constant while speeding up. When the driver shifts to a higher gear as the speed increases, the amount of torque to the wheels drops, thus decreasing the acceleration of the car.

How does all this fancy unit conversion relate to the rally car? Well, while the torque gets multiplied and changed along with the rpm through the transmission’s gear ratios, the power stays the same, minus some losses through friction, regardless of the gear. This power that the engine puts out can be directly equated to the power put into accelerating the car, overcoming the various drag forces, moving the entire car up and down hills, and so forth. This is where I introduce another equation, one that relates Energy with mass and velocity: E = (1/2)*m*v²

To avoid getting into calculus and integrating power with respect to time, just keep in mind that energy can be thought of as the total amount of power that has been applied to the system, which in this case, is the car. The more power the engine generates, the faster the velocity changes. The change in velocity is measured as… dundunDUN! The acceleration! However, note that the velocity term is squared. As the speed increases, the engine needs to create more and more power to maintain the same accleration. This should sound pretty familiar to something we found when calculating the acceleration with the torque: higher gears let you go faster, but decrease the amount of acceleration. There is no getting around this. So now we have two relatively simple ways of finding the acceleration of a car at any given moment:

  1. The torque at the wheels, found by multiplying the engine torque and gear ratio.
  2. The power output of the engine and the velocity of the car.

So in the end, what is it that really does matter? To such a difficult question, I find it neccessary to give a cryptic answer: it depends on what you’re trying to do! In a perfect world, engines would have infinite amounts of torque and power, and the acceleration would be limited by the friction coefficient of the tires. Unfortunately this isn’t the case, so we must settle on a compromise between power and torque. With common engine technology, the camshaft profile and timing has the largest easily changed effect on where the engine’s peak torque is in the rpm band. Due to this limitation, engines usually focus on low end, midrange or high end torque. The low end stuff is great for getting moving, especially if you’re moving a lot of weight. Good midrange torque makes for a very drivable car in almost all circumstances. High end torque translates to the most horsepower, which is good if you want to go really fast all the time, though it usually comes with the cost of reduced acceleration. One way to avoid this compromise is to use variable valve timing, but this is out of the scope of this article.

For high speed racing, like F1, having as much power as possible is what wins races. This can be seen by the design philosophy of the engines: Astronomical rev limits to get the most amount of power out of an engine that can develop limited amounts of torque. It’s not every day that you see normally aspirated 2.4L V8’s putting out 700-800hp. They can do that thanks to the rpm that the design allows. Remember that hp = torque * rpm / 5252. We can solve for torque in this case to find that at the rev limit, the F1 engines are making around 200 ft-lbs of torque. This is still very impressive for the displacement, but not nearly as high as the power output. Conversely, engines with a very low rpm limit, like diesel engines, must generate massive amounts of torque to make any reasonable amount of power.

For rally racing, having as much acceleration as possible available to you at any moment is imperative. As such, we want an engine that has a very broad torque and power curve with good responsiveness. Gobs of torque down low, without sacrificing the top end is ideal for maximum performance in the varied conditions that rally cars encounter. As such, compromises are usually made to focus on midrange torque, which will still offer decent low end and top end power. This is the design path we will follow when we start doing engine modifications to our car.

April 8th, 2008 | 1 Comment

How to Left Foot Brake [ April 8th, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith

*WARNING*
DO NOT TRY THIS FOR YOUR FIRST TIME ON A PUBLIC STREET
If you’re used to using the Clutch Pedal with your left foot, you will slam on the brakes the first time you try this.
*WARNING*

Performing Left Foot Braking

  1. Press the Throttle with your Right Foot
  2. Apply Pressure to the Brake with your Left Foot

Left Foot Braking (LFB) is, in theory, very simple. With your Right foot on the gas you use your left foot to brake and that will change the balance of the car. The trick with LFB is the technique changes from car to car and from surface to surface. When I was learning how to use LFB one of the cars I drove “preferred” a stab at the brakes followed by firm pressure, while another one preferred smooth application of the brakes and far less pressure than the first car. My WRX, in the snow, prefers throttle to pitch the car with light and short LFB to upset the balance and flick the car.

In order to succeed at LFB you should practice normal braking with your left foot in an EMPTY parking lot. The first time you try it, you will probably apply a bit too much pressure and abruptly stop. Once you’re comfortable braking with your left foot use it while driving normally. You will develop better control over your left foot.

Why Left Foot Brake?

Left Foot Braking can be used in a few ways, and those ways are surface dependent. On Tarmac it is primarily used to reduce the time from throttle to brake. On gravel, snow and dirt it is used to pitch the car into a slide. In turbocharged cars it can be used to keep the turbo spooled through corners,.

On the loose stuff it can be used to slide front wheel drive cars (FWD), and very easily rear wheel drive cars (RWD), without using the handbrake. It does this by un-weighting the rear end of the car and giving the front wheels more traction. Try it out: find an empty lot of loose stuff (parking lot with snow, field you have permission to be in, gravel parking lot you’re allowed to wreck) and start driving in a circle. Start with little steering input (so that means not full lock!) and with your right foot on the gas (keep it at a decent pressure), apply the brakes slowly and smoothly with your left. If your car just slows down, keep trying, but use less braking pressure. You might find your car enter a slide. Maybe, if you still aren’t sliding, try stabbing at the brakes with your left foot. Experiment, it is one of the best ways to teach yourself anything. You will eventually see the effects of weight transfer, and you will be a safer driver because of it. This is very hard on your brakes and your engine, so be warned and be safe!

It sports yet another nifty use: Left Foot Braking is a poor man’s limited slip differential. A car with a normal differential will apply no power to the ground if one of the drive wheels (assuming 2WD) is spinning freely. Adding braking forces to the wheel will cause the differential to act as if both wheels are gripping and will apply power to both wheels. So next time you find your dirt launches to cause a one tire fire, or one of your drive wheels is stuck in a ditch and the other is in the air, apply a tiny amount of brake pressure.

April 8th, 2008 | 1 Comment

Subaru Wheel Wells and Snow Accumulation [ April 7th, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith

I had a problem this winter: whenever I would go out and play in the snow with my WRX, snow would be melted by the tires and refreeze on the wheel well. I was wondering if you could give me some insight in how to prevent this. So leave a comment, tell me how to fix my problems.

I was thinking that maybe a wax coating would prevent it from happening.

April 7th, 2008 | 5 Comments

How To Heel-Toe [ April 7th, 2008 ] By:Charles Smith

Performing a Heel-Toe Down Shift

  1. Start braking with your right foot
  2. Clutch In when the Engine is in/below the low end of the power band
  3. Move the Gear Selector into the next lower gear
  4. Blip the throttle with your heel by rotating your right foot while keeping pressure on the brakes with your toes
  5. Clutch Out smooth and easy
  6. Keep Braking

Step 4 is what makes the Heel-Toe a Heel-Toe. Its name comes from the fact that the toes of the right foot and the heel of the right foot are on separate pedals. Specifically the toes (balls of the feet) are braking while the heel blips the throttle. Depending on the pedal setup of the car a Heel-Toe becomes an Inside-Outside where the Inside of the right foot brakes while the outside blips the throttle.

Steps 3 and 4, after practice, happen simultaneously. The six steps end up taking very little time to execute with practice. To make it even more complex steps 3 and 4 can also be expanded to include a Double Clutch to be easier on the transmission. Double Clutching during the Heel-Toe procedure adds 3 steps to the process:

  1. Start braking with your right foot
  2. Clutch In when the Engine is in/below the low end of the power band
  3. Move the gear selector into Neutral
  4. Clutch Out
  5. Blip the throttle with your heel by rotating your right foot while keeping pressure on the brakes with your toes
  6. Clutch In
  7. Move the gear selector to next lower gear
  8. Clutch Out smooth and easy
  9. Keep Braking

Why Heel-Toe?

Under braking and cornering a sudden load on the drivetrain (because of a failure to match RPMs in a downshift) could cause the drive wheels to lose traction. The Heel part makes the downshift smooth while the Toe part keeps the braking pressure on. A properly executed Heel-Toe also keeps the car balanced while braking.

Keeping the drive wheels loaded with the engine’s torque will also make braking lock-ups of the drive wheels harder to do.

Just as with Double Clutching the point of a Heel-Toe is smoothness and it gets easier and easier with practice. Remember, keep it smooth and the speed will come.

April 7th, 2008 | 1 Comment

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